When you walk into a bathroom cubicle in a department store and the toilet seat rises up in automatic salute you know that you are in a very special country, and without doubt, three weeks in Japan has transformed me.
Arriving with only the first and last 3 nights booked in hotels in Tokyo, our only other committment was to a Japan Rail Pass which gave us full access to the entire JR network and therefore the ability to travel up and down the country on the beautiful Schinkansen bullet trains (which are so fast and comfortable you wonder why anyone would fly domestically in Japan).
Having embraced the uncertainty that comes without any plan, I can look back over the last three weeks and be amazed by the perfection of our itinerary which arose day to day through the combination of ongoing research and intuition.
Our explorations took us first from Tokyo to Karuizawa and the Hoshinoya Onsen, an exquisite hotel nestling in a wooded valley where, at night, our suite overlooked floating lanterns glowing orange on the moonlit lake, and the rustling hurry of charging streams calmly settled the evening air.
It was in the onsen that I lay in the early sunlight and the ancient hot springs, observing the ecstacy of a dragon fly threesome, the bold landings of inquisitive butterflies and the magical dance of a solitary pond skater.
And then to Kyoto, the seat of Japanese tradition and religion where I saw and felt the power of the Buddhist and Shinto temples, showered naked in a mysterious waterfall hidden at the top of a secret mountain path and experienced the uncompromising perfection of my first Japanese garden, complete with majestic maple, ninja fishing cranes and the friendly pouting of multi-coloured coy carp.
When presented with a stadium of ramen restaurants, it takes a connoisseur to know which to choose, but its fair to say that if anywhere knows its ramen, its Fukuoka (the arrival point for visitors to the southern island of Japan – Kyushu). With its multiple broths, toppings, and regional variations you could stay a week in Fukuoka without eating the same ramen twice!
Craving the energy of the sea we took a side trip from Fukuoka, to the small island of Nokonoshima where we pedalled and pushed tiny rental bikes to the top of the hill in the centre of the island, in order to free wheel for several kilometres down a scooby-doo-style, tree-enclosed track, occasionally glimpsing sailing boats and tankers through small clearings in the yuzu trees as we completed our circumnavigation.
And then by train, ferry and bus to Naoshima and the Bennesse Art Site and the Chichu Museum. On reflection, perhaps this was the most sacred pilgrimage of all. A space unlike any I have previously experienced, combining natural beauty, modern and contemporary art, architecture, design and infallible service. Here the chief exhibitor is the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, but such is the brilliance of his observance of line, land and object, that sculptures, prints, beaches and rocky outcrops alike, sit in unparallelled harmony with his masterly works.
And then again north to Osaka, which served as a base to reach back into the energy of a sprawling asian city but also to visit Koya san, the temple region in the mountains where lies the headquarters of the Shingon School of Esoteric Buddhism.
And then finally back to Tokyo for an extended period of 5 nights in order to connect further with new friends, sample the Tranny Trash Burger nightlife and delight in a myriad of culinary excellence from Sushi to Tepanyaki and Shabu Shabu to Abura Ramen (oilly noodles – very hard to find but well worth it!)
With such an exquisite backdrop it was almost inevitable that I would be called into further depths of presence and awareness and I find myself now feeling more connected than ever to my physicality, spirituality and emerging identity as an artist.
For all of this I am grateful to Japan and the friends and strangers I met along the way but even more to Stephen, with whom I continue to learn so much.
To be taken to a selection of my images from the trip please click here.
